Sometimes yes. This page tells you in which cases — and in which any shop-bought product will be money wasted.
There are cases where calling a specialist really is not necessary, and we say so plainly. You can deal with it yourself if all of these apply:
If even one of these does not apply, doing it yourself usually amounts to postponement rather than a solution.
Before buying a product it is worth establishing two facts that change everything that follows: how humid the air is and whether the ventilation works. Both checks cost close to nothing.
The last check is the most important, because it answers the main question. If the patch does not return for months after cleaning, you really did deal with it. If it comes back within weeks, the moisture source is still there, and no product will change that.
The porous material limit is the one most often crossed by people working on their own. Wallpaper with fungus cannot be treated — the fungus grows both in the paper and in the adhesive layer beneath it. A plasterboard sheet with a dark patch means the paper facing is a food source, and its core holds moisture long after the surface is dry. In both cases the material has to be removed, and that is no longer a question of which product to buy.
| Product | On a smooth surface | On a porous surface | Against the cause |
|---|---|---|---|
| Bleach (chlorine) | Works on the surface | Bleaches, fungus stays | Does not work |
| Vinegar | Partly | No | Does not work |
| Hydrogen peroxide | Works on the surface | Limited | Does not work |
| Shop-bought anti-mould product | Works | Limited | Does not work |
| Anti-mould primer | Prevention after treatment | Prevention after treatment | Does not work |
| Removing the material | — | The only reliable option | Does not work |
| Sorting out the ventilation | — | — | Works |
The most important thing to know about shop-bought products: their job is to treat the surface. None of them is intended for fungus that has grown into the material, and none of them changes why the material is damp.
Bleach deserves a separate note, because it is the most common home remedy. On a smooth surface it works. On a porous one it mostly bleaches — after a few hours the patch looks as if it has gone, but the fungus in the material has stayed and will return. People then conclude that "mould is very stubborn", when in fact it was never removed.
Two of these mistakes cost more than the rest. The first is painting over: the paint hides the patch for a few months, the fungus underneath keeps growing, and in the end both the paint and what is under it have to come off. The second is treating a wall that is still wet after flooding — that is money entirely wasted, because treatment does not work in wet material.
The price range for mould work is wide, not because it is vague but because the scope of work varies by a factor of several.
If after reading this page you conclude the case is within your own capability — good, that was the point. If not: inspection with moisture readings from €40, treatment from €1.50/m², minimum from €80.
On a smooth surface both treat the surface. Neither reaches fungus in porous material and neither changes the moisture cause, so the choice between them is not the decisive question.
No. Mould under paint keeps growing and comes through after a while. Anti-mould paint is prevention for a surface that is already dry and treated.
That is the clearest possible signal that the moisture cause has not been dealt with. Cleaning removed the effect, not the reason.
Describe the situation — we will tell you whether treatment is needed at all, and which one.
Fill in the form — we will call you on the number you provide, ask a few clarifying questions and propose a solution.
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