Premises disinfection, mould and odour removal in Riga and the surrounding region — We contact you within 5 minutes of your enquiry.

Mould removal in Riga

We work out why the mould appeared, remove it, and tell you what has to change so it does not come back.

Moisture readings
Cause diagnosis
Riga + surrounding area

Mould in a flat or house is almost never a cleanliness problem. It is a moisture problem that has become visible. The fungus grows wherever a surface stays damp for long enough — which means that cleaning mould off without dealing with the cause is purely cosmetic.

That is why our work starts with a measurement rather than a treatment: where the moisture is, where it comes from, and how deep into the structure it has gone. Only then does it make sense to talk about treating surfaces.

How mould removal works

Every property is different, but the order of work is always the same. That order is not a formality — skip the first step and the rest lose their point.

Inspection and moisture readings

We look at the affected area, measure moisture in the material and relative humidity in the air, and look for the source — a leak, a cold bridge, a ventilation problem or condensation.

Identifying the cause

We tell you why the mould appeared in this particular spot. Without that, treatment is only surface cleaning.

Removing damaged materials

If the fungus has got into porous material — wallpaper, plasterboard, insulation — we cut it out and dispose of it. Washing it off is not possible.

Surface treatment

We treat the affected zone and a wide enough band around it with professional products, observing the required contact time.

Drying and checks

If the structure is damp, we dry it out. We confirm that moisture readings are back to normal before the room goes back into use.

Recommendations

You get a specific list — what to change in the ventilation, the heating or your daily routine so the mould does not return.

Treatment without a diagnosis is cosmetic work you end up paying for twice.

Why the cause matters more than the treatment

Mould spores are in the air always and everywhere — you cannot "eradicate" them from a room, and that is not the goal. Spores only start to grow when they land on a surface with enough moisture on it. If the moisture source stays, the mould will come back on the same wall, usually within a few months.

In practice the moisture source is almost always one of these:

  • Condensation on a cold surface — warm, humid indoor air meets a cold external wall, window or corner, and moisture settles out. The most common cause in Riga flats.
  • Not enough air exchange — after the windows were replaced the room became airtight, but the ventilation stayed as it was. The moisture simply has nowhere to go.
  • A leak — roof, pipe, flooding from a neighbour, failed damp-proofing. Often invisible, because the water travels through the structure.
  • Rising damp — in basements and on ground floors, moisture rises up from the foundations.
  • Cold bridges — places where heat escapes through the structure: corners, floor slab junctions, balcony slabs.

So after treatment you get more than a clean surface: you get a specific list of what needs to change in this particular room so the problem does not repeat. Sometimes that means restoring ventilation, sometimes insulation, sometimes simply a different airing routine.

What the type of building tells us

Riga's housing stock is not uniform, and the cause of mould depends heavily on what kind of building you live in. The same symptom — a patch in the corner of an external wall — arises for three different reasons in three building types.

1Pre-war buildingThick masonry wall, often uninsulated, natural ventilation through chimney flues. The masonry stores moisture, and once the windows are replaced the flues are left with no air supply.
2Soviet-era panel blockCold bridges along the panel joints, a shared ventilation shaft, and typically narrow kitchens and windowless bathrooms. Patches appear in corners and along the joint lines.
3New buildAn airtight envelope and construction moisture still in the structure. In the first winters humidity is high throughout the home if the mechanical ventilation is not switched on or balanced.

That is why at an inspection we always ask what kind of building it is, when the windows were replaced and whether the facade is insulated. These are not small talk — they narrow down the range of possible causes before we have even touched the wall.

Why the calls come in October and March

Condensation mould is seasonal. During the heating season the inner face of external walls, window frames and wall corners cool down, while the amount of moisture in the indoor air stays the same or increases — windows are kept shut, laundry is dried indoors, airing happens less often. When warm indoor air meets a cool surface, moisture settles on it.

The corner of an external wall is usually several degrees cooler than the middle of the wall, because heat escapes in two directions at once. That difference of a few degrees is exactly what decides whether condensation forms.

40–60%normal humidity in a living room
Oct–Marcondensation season
from €40inspection with readings

Spring and autumn are transitional periods, when the heating is not on yet or no longer on, but the outdoor air is damp. In these months patches often show up in uninsulated utility rooms, on glazed balconies and at basement level.

What we treat with

We choose the method according to how deep the fungus has gone into the material and what kind of surface it is. On a dense, smooth surface, surface treatment is enough. Porous materials — plasterboard, wallpaper, mineral wool, timber — often have to be removed, because the fungus grows inside the material and there is no way to "wash it off".

  • Mechanical removal — cutting out the affected finishes. Always the first step when the material is porous.
  • Surface treatment with a fungicide — professional products with a defined contact time, not household bleach.
  • Room treatment with a cold fogger — when spores have spread beyond the visible area.
  • Ozone treatment — after treatment, to clear the musty smell and reach places that are hard to get at.
  • Drying — condensation dryers, when water has built up in the structure.

You do not treat porous material — you remove it. That is the only honest answer.

How long it takes

An inspection takes roughly an hour. The treatment itself, in a single room, is usually a few hours. If finishes have to be stripped or the structure dried out, the work can run over several days — drying is a process, and no chemical speeds it up.

One thing matters above all: there is no point treating a structure while it is still wet. If a wall is saturated with water, it has to be dried first and treated afterwards. A company offering to treat a wet wall "today" is selling you a second call-out six months from now.

What we do not do

Being clear about the limits is as useful as describing the service, so we will say it plainly.

✓ What we do

  • Inspect and measure moisture in the air and in the material.
  • Identify the cause and record it in writing.
  • Remove affected porous material and treat the structure.
  • Dry it out and check the readings before handing the room back.
  • Ozone-treat the space if a smell remains.

✗ What we do not do

  • No plumbing, roofing or facade repairs.
  • No cleaning or repair of ventilation shafts.
  • No insulation or construction work.
  • No treating a wet structure before it has been dried.
  • No selling treatment when the readings show it is not needed.

If the cause is structural — a break in the insulation, a cold bridge, failed damp-proofing or a shared ventilation problem — we name it specifically and say what has to be dealt with and by whom. That is not always the answer a client hopes for, but it is the only one that ends the problem.

What to check before you get in touch

You can find some of the answers yourself, and that is not us doing less work — it is a way to make the inspection faster and more precise.

  • Hold a thin sheet of paper against the ventilation grille. If it does not stick, the extract is not working.
  • Buy a hygrometer and take readings in several rooms over several days in a row.
  • Pull a wardrobe or sofa away from the external wall and look at the wall behind it.
  • Wipe a small part of the patch with a damp cloth and note the date — see whether it comes back.
  • Check whether there is a gap under the bathroom and kitchen doors for air to get in.

If it turns out the extract is not working and humidity is consistently above 70%, you already know the main thing. With that information the inspection gets shorter, and in some cases it turns out no treatment is needed at all — sorting out the ventilation is enough.

Mould by place and topic

Each page covers one specific situation — why mould grows there and what to do about it.

Mould on wallsIt shows up most often on external walls, in corners and behind furniture — and the reason is alMould on ceilingsOn a ceiling, mould means one of two things — a leak from above or condensation. They call for cBathroom mouldBlack grout and the silicone around the bath are the most common places for mould in a flat — anMould in a basementIn a basement, moisture comes from the ground and from airing the space the wrong way. In summerMould on window framesIf the mould appeared after new windows were fitted, that is not a coincidence. It is a direct cMould behind furniture and in wardrobesA piece of furniture against an external wall acts like a blanket — the wall behind it becomes cBlack mouldNot every dark patch is “black mould”, but how you handle it is the same in every case — never bWhat causes mouldMould is a symptom. This page helps you work out which of five possible causes applies in your cMould and healthNo exaggeration and no false reassurance — what is known about the effects of mould and what folCan you remove mould yourself?Sometimes yes. This page tells you in which cases — and in which any shop-bought product will beWhy mould comes backIf mould returned in the same place, the reason is almost always one of five — and only one of tMusty mould smellThe characteristic musty smell often appears months before the first visible patch. It is a usefHow to identify mouldNot every dark patch on a wall is fungus. Here are the signs to tell them apart.Mould in a rented flatWho pays — the tenant or the landlord? The answer depends on the cause, which is exactly why estMould under floor coveringsOn the surface a floor can look normal for months after a leak, while the substrate beneath it iMould in a new buildMould in a new building comes as a surprise, but it is logical: the walls still hold constructioMould on balconies and loggiasGlazing keeps the rain out, but it also creates a cold, closed box in which moisture has nowhereMould in a child's roomA child spends more hours in that room than anyone else in the family, so it is the room worth s

Frequently asked questions

How much does mould removal cost?

Inspection with moisture readings from €40. Treatment from €1.50/m², minimum order from €80. The final price depends on the area, on how deep the fungus has gone into the material, and on whether drying is needed. We set the exact price after the inspection.

Can you remove mould if I do not know what is causing it?

Yes — identifying the cause is part of the job. That is exactly why an inspection with moisture readings is the first step and not an optional extra.

Can mould come back after treatment?

If the moisture source has not been dealt with, yes, and usually in the same place. That is why you get recommendations after the treatment on what to do so it does not happen. If the cause is structural, we say so plainly, even when the fix means building work.

Do we have to move out of the flat during treatment?

It depends on the method. During surface treatment it is usually enough that you are not in the room. After ozone or fogging treatment the room has to be left for a set period and then aired thoroughly — we give you the exact time on site.

Can I clean mould off myself with a shop-bought product?

A small, recently appeared patch on a smooth surface — yes. But a shop product strips the colour off the fungus rather than the fungus out of the material, and it does nothing about the cause. If the patch comes back, or is bigger than your palm, that is not enough.

Do you work with rented flats and apartment blocks?

Yes. We often work on the instruction of owners or property managers. If the cause of the mould is in the building structure or the shared ventilation, we state that in the inspection result.

Not sure which treatment you need?

Describe the situation — we will tell you whether treatment is needed at all, and which one.

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