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Mould on walls

It shows up most often on external walls, in corners and behind furniture — and the reason is almost always condensation, not dirt.

Mould in the corner of an external wall in a flat
Typical mould in an external wall corner — the spot where the wall cools most and condensation settles first.

Why mould appears on walls

On a wall, mould grows where the surface temperature is below the dew point of the air. Put simply: the wall is cold enough for moisture from the indoor air to settle on it. This happens a little every day, and after a while a patch appears.

That is why mould is almost always on external walls rather than internal partitions. An internal wall is as warm as the room — condensation does not form on it. If a patch does appear on an internal wall, it almost always means a leak in the structure or moisture coming up from the floor.

The other cause: a leak

The second most common reason is a leak: a damaged pipe inside the wall, a crack in the external render, flooding from above. In that case the moisture comes from inside the structure, and the patch is often larger than it looks from the outside.

The corner of an external wall is several degrees cooler than the middle of the wall — and that difference is what decides whether condensation forms.

Cold bridges — where it appears first

In a corner, heat escapes in two directions at once, so the surface there cools the most. The same effect occurs at the edge of a floor slab, at a balcony slab that passes through the wall, and at steel reinforcement in a panel joint. In construction all of these are called cold bridges, and they are exactly the places where mould appears first.

What the building type means

The same picture — a dark patch in an external wall corner — arises for different reasons in three Riga building types, and that changes the solution.

1Pre-war buildingThick uninsulated masonry wall. The masonry absorbs and holds moisture, and natural ventilation runs through chimney flues. Once the windows are replaced the flues are left without an air supply, and moisture starts to build up.
2Panel blockPatches often follow the line of the panel joints, where the insulation is thinner or damaged. The external wall corner in the bedroom is the single most typical spot across Riga's panel stock.
3New buildIn the first winters the walls still hold construction moisture, but the building is airtight. If the mechanical ventilation is not switched on, the moisture stays inside and settles on the coolest surfaces.

That is why at an inspection we always ask what kind of building it is, when the windows were replaced and whether the facade is insulated. Those three questions narrow the range of possible causes before we have touched the wall.

The most typical places

LocationWhat it usually means
External wall cornerCold bridge — the wall cools most in the corner
Behind a wardrobe or sofa against an external wallAir does not circulate, the wall behind the furniture is cooler
Under a window / at the edge of the sillCondensation from the window, sometimes a failed seal
Lower part of the wall at floor levelRising damp or a leak at floor level
A patch mid-wall with no patternMost often a leak inside the structure

If the mould is in one specific spot, it points to a local problem — a cold bridge or a leak. If it is scattered around the whole room, the problem is air exchange and the overall moisture level.

A concrete example from a typical Riga flat. A 54 m² two-room flat in a panel block in Purvciems, the corner of the bedroom's external wall, a patch of roughly 0.5 m². The windows were replaced four years ago, the bed stands against the external wall, and laundry is dried in the bedroom. Humidity in the room is 72%, and the kitchen extract will not hold a sheet of paper.

There is no leak here and nothing wrong with the building — there is an airtight room that receives moisture every night from breathing and from laundry, with nowhere for it to go.

Telling mould apart from patches that look like it

Not every dark or white area on a wall is fungus, and a wrong diagnosis leads to unnecessary treatment.

✓ Signs of mould

  • The patch grows and changes shape over time.
  • The surface is velvety or fluffy, with a slight texture.
  • The edges are irregular and diffuse.
  • There is a characteristic musty, damp smell.
  • It comes back in the same place after cleaning.

✗ What is not mould

  • White crystalline powder — salt efflorescence from the masonry.
  • A flat grey film that wipes off and does not return — dust.
  • A yellow-brown patch with a clean edge that does not grow — an old water stain.
  • Even greying along the ceiling line above a radiator — soot deposits.

Salt efflorescence is especially common at basement level in pre-war buildings and on brick walls. It is not a fungus, but it is a sign of moisture: salts are washed out of masonry only where water is moving through it. So it is a reason to check the structure, not a reason to treat.

How we remove it

First we measure — both the moisture in the wall material and the humidity of the air in the room. That shows whether we are dealing with condensation or a leak, and it changes everything that follows.

Measurement

We determine moisture in the material and in the air, and find the coldest zones.

Stripping finishes

If the fungus has got into wallpaper or plaster, we remove the affected layer.

Treatment

We treat the surface and a band around the visible area with a professional product.

Drying

If the wall is damp, we dry it out before any redecoration.

Recommendations

We tell you what has to change so the patch does not come back.

After treatment the wall is ready for redecoration. Painting or hanging wallpaper is only allowed once the moisture readings are back to normal — otherwise the fungus will appear under the new finish.

How wide an area we work on is decided by the material. On a painted, dense wall, treating the surface and a band around the patch is often enough. Wallpaper with fungus always has to come off — the fungus grows both in the paper itself and in the adhesive layer beneath it. Plasterboard with fungus in the paper facing usually has to be cut out, because its core holds moisture for a long time.

What you can do yourself

If the patch is small, has only just appeared and is on a smooth, non-porous surface, you can try to deal with it yourself. What matters:

  • Do not start by brushing or wiping it dry — that lifts spores into the air and spreads them around the room.
  • Use a product intended for mould and observe the contact time stated on the packaging.
  • Air the room while you work and afterwards.
  • If the patch comes back, the problem is the cause, and no product will ever fix that.

Before that, a few checks are worth doing — they cost nothing and often point straight at the cause:

  • Measure the humidity with a hygrometer in several rooms over several days in a row.
  • Hold a sheet of paper against the ventilation grilles in the kitchen and the bathroom.
  • Move the furniture away from the external wall for at least a few weeks and watch whether anything changes.
  • Stop drying laundry in living rooms and see whether the humidity reading falls.
  • Check that the radiator under the window is not blocked by a deep sill or by curtains.

What you cannot handle yourself: mould under wallpaper or finishes, mould over an area larger than about half a metre, and mould that keeps coming back. In those cases the material has to be removed and the moisture source dealt with.

There are also cases where we tell you no treatment is needed. If the readings show normal moisture levels, the patch is dry and no longer growing, and it is simply an old stain, treatment changes nothing — redecorating is enough.

Prices

Inspection with moisture readings from €40. Treatment from €1.50/m², minimum order from €80. If finishes have to be stripped or drying is required, we assess that on site and agree it before starting work.

Related pages

Frequently asked questions

Can mould under wallpaper be treated without removing the wallpaper?

No. The fungus grows in the wallpaper material and in the adhesive beneath it, so treating over the top changes nothing. Affected wallpaper has to come off.

How far around the patch do you have to treat?

Considerably further than you can see. The fungus spreads through the material before it becomes visible on the surface, so we treat a sufficient band around the affected zone.

Can the wall be painted straight after treatment?

Only once the moisture readings are back to normal. Paint a damp wall and the mould will appear under the new layer.

Not sure which treatment you need?

Describe the situation — we will tell you whether treatment is needed at all, and which one.

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