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Disinfection after flooding

After flooding, time is what matters most. Fungal growth in wet material develops over days, not weeks.

What to do in the first days

This is one of the rare cases where what you do in the first hours affects the final outcome more than any later treatment.

  • Stop the source of the water, if that has not been done already.
  • Move out everything that can be moved — furniture, boxes, textiles, documents.
  • Lift the wet floor covering if it can be lifted. Water lingers longest under laminate and linoleum.
  • Get air moving and ventilate, if outdoor conditions allow it.
  • Photograph everything affected — you will need this for insurance.
  • Do not put down a new finish until the structure has dried out.

That last point is the important one. The urge to "get everything back to normal" after flooding is the single most common reason why mould appears under the new finish a few months later.

✓ Helps

  • Removing standing water and taking out wet materials.
  • Opening internal doors so air can move.
  • Switching off the electricity in the affected area if water has reached sockets.
  • Informing neighbours and the building manager if shared structure is affected.

✗ Makes it worse

  • Closing up a wet room with no ventilation.
  • Laying a new floor covering "while the tradesmen are here".
  • Leaving wet furniture against the wall — drying stops there completely.
  • Throwing out affected materials before photographing them.

What happens if nothing is done

Flooding is not an event that ends when the water has been mopped up. What follows is a process, and a fairly predictable one.

1The first hoursWater spreads through the structure — under the floor covering, into the base of partition walls, downwards through the floor slab. The visible area is already smaller than the real one.
2The first 1–2 daysConditions form inside wet porous material in which fungal growth begins. Nothing is visible yet, which is precisely why this stage gets missed.
3The first weeksA musty smell appears, then patches — most often along the skirting line, under the window and behind furniture. Chipboard swells and laminate joints lift.
4MonthsGrowth reaches the plaster and the insulation. The job turns from drying into stripping out finishes and insulation, and the cost rises several times over.

This is also the answer to why the work costs more after a month than after two days. Neither the products nor the method change — what changes is the volume that has to be removed.

What cannot be saved

MaterialSalvageableNote
Tiles, concrete, brickYesMust be dried and treated
Solid timber furnitureOften yesDepends on how long it stayed wet
Chipboard furnitureRarelySwells and loses its structure
LaminateNoThe base layer swells irreversibly
Mineral wool insulationNoLoses its properties, becomes a growth medium
PlasterboardRarelyThe paper facing feeds fungal growth
Carpet with backingRarelyThe backing holds moisture
MattressNoFilling cannot be reliably dried and treated

The general principle: the more porous the material and the longer it stayed wet, the smaller the chance that treatment will hold. With hard, smooth materials things are usually fine.

The reason is physical. Porous material absorbs water through its full thickness, and fungal spores travel in with the water. A disinfectant works where it reaches, and it reaches the surface and a few millimetres below. The depth of the material stays untreated, which is why the smell and the patches come back from there a few weeks later. This is not a question of product quality — it is how the material is built.

Furniture

Solid timber furniture can often be dried and kept, provided it has not stood in water for several days. Chipboard furniture swells irreversibly once soaked — it may look normal, but the board structure has broken down and the material holds moisture. We do not consider a mattress or an upholstered item with filling salvageable after flooding, and we say so straight away rather than treating it at your expense.

Why drying comes first, and why it cannot be rushed

Disinfecting a damp structure gives no lasting result — the fungus still has both moisture and something to feed on.

Fungal growth needs three things: moisture, a food source and temperature. The food source — paper, wallpaper paste, plaster, dust — cannot be taken out of a wall. Nobody is going to change the temperature of a living room. The only variable you can remove is moisture, and that is exactly why drying is the first step, not the last.

How long drying takes

How long drying takes depends on the material and on how much water there was. Timber structures dry faster; a concrete slab and thick plaster take longer, because moisture moves slowly from the depth to the surface. In practice this means anything from a few days to several weeks. The stage cannot be shortened with chemistry: a product acts on micro-organisms, not on water inside a structure.

The end point is set by a moisture reading, not by the calendar and not by appearance. A wall can be dry at the surface and wet inside — this is precisely the case in which people put on a new finish and lift it off three months later. A material moisture reading shows the state at depth, and only then can treatment and, after it, finishing begin.

Building types behave differently here.

1Pre-war buildingsWith timber floor structures, water gets into the fill and travels down to the neighbours, so the affected area often covers two floors.
2Soviet-era panel blocksWater travels along the panel joints and spreads horizontally further than it looks.
3New buildsWith a floating floor and a layer of insulation under the covering, water stays in exactly that layer, where you cannot see it and from where it will not dry out on its own.

How we work

Inspection and moisture measurement

We establish how far water has travelled through the structure — always further than you can see.

Removing affected materials

We take out what cannot be saved, so the structure can be reached.

Drying

We dry the structure back to normal moisture readings. This step cannot be shortened with chemistry.

Disinfection

We treat the structure and the room once it is dry.

Odour removal

If a damp smell remains, we carry out ozone treatment.

Handover

We confirm the moisture readings are normal and the premises can be finished.

To be clear: we do not do plumbing repairs or redecoration. Our work is inspection, assessment and removal of affected materials, drying, disinfection and odour removal — that is, getting the premises to a state where renovation can safely begin.

Insurance

If the case is insured, we prepare a description of what we found and what we did after the inspection. A practical tip: photograph the situation before any cleaning — afterwards it can no longer be proved.

  • Photograph the affected area as a whole, then each damaged spot separately.
  • Record the water line on the wall while it is still visible.
  • Photograph the contents of cupboards and textiles before removing anything.
  • Write down when the flooding happened and when it was noticed.
  • Do not throw out damaged belongings before they have been recorded.

If the water came from the neighbours, a report from the building manager on the cause of the incident is useful as well. Our description is a technical document covering findings and moisture readings — it does not replace the insurer's assessment, but it is usually where the conversation starts.

Prices

Treatment after flooding from €90. The final price depends on the floor area, the volume of affected materials and whether drying is needed. We set the exact price after the inspection.

Related pages

Frequently asked questions

How long does a room need to dry after flooding?

Depending on the structure and the amount of water, anything from a few days to several weeks. Concrete structures take longer. A meter tells you when it is ready, not the calendar.

Can I lay a new floor immediately after drying?

Only once the moisture readings are normal. If you lay a covering over a damp base, mould will appear underneath and it will have to come up again.

The neighbours flooded my flat — who pays?

That is a matter between you, the neighbours and the insurers. We provide a description of what we found and what we did, which you can use in that conversation.

Not sure which treatment you need?

Describe the situation — we will tell you whether treatment is needed at all, and which one.

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